Changing switch housings on the VTX

Preface
This is a very brief description for swapping switch housings on the VTX. This should be the same process for any VTX, whether it's a 1300 or 1800 or R, S, N, C model. This isn't as detailed as many of my write-ups because the basics are easy, the tough spots will vary slightly based on fitment between models. And for the legal mumbo-jumbo - always undertake this project at your own risk!

Preparation/supplies
Philips head screwdrivers - #1 and #2 Phillips head
10mm wrench
Small file or dremel tool
Channel locks or pliers
Chrome switch housings from HDL or you can get your stock ones chromed by Handler

Process
First things first, here's what we're dealing with:

I used Show Chrome covers for this, they were my buddies not mine.

The first thing I recommend is taking a few minutes with a file or a dremel tool to smooth the edges where the switches all poke through - the horn button, starter button , kill switch and high beam switch. The blinker wasn't much of an issue. This is because I learned the hard way that these switches will tend to stick a little if you don't do this. I think these housings were made to factory specs and the chrome plating is just thick enough to cause problems.

Right (throttle) side
With the housings prepped let's loosen the throttle cables so we can remove them:

Use channel locks or pliers to grab the knurled "nuts" on the cables, use a shop towel to protect the metal from being chewed up by the pliers. Once broken loose the "nuts" should turn by hand to get them off.
Do yourself a favor and undo the 2 connectors going to the brake switch now, this will give you a lot more slack to work with:

Then take your screwdriver and undo the 2 screws under the housing:

This will allow you to split the housing and see the throttle cables. Carefully (so you don't break the throttle sleeve) see if there is enough slack to remove the cables from the throttle sleeve. I would say that about 95% of the time there is not so you may have to look under the tank for this 10mm nut where the cables get to the throttle body:

With many aftermarket airboxes you can get to this without removing anything from the bike, with the stock airbox you might be able to get it with small hands but I doubt it. If you have the stock airbox and can't get to it you can lift the tank using the beginning part of my directions from the desmog write-up.
With that nut loosened you will get the slack you need to remove the cables from the throttle sleeve and separate the switch housing from it.
You will have to unscrew the top throttle cable from the housing so pay attention to how many threads are showing outside the housing OR count how many turns it takes to unscrew the cable from the housing. When we reassemble we will need to screw the cable back in about the same amount.

With all that done the process is now just a matter of moving one set of wires/switches/screws to the new housing. Take your time, be careful not to lose any of the small parts like screws and move one half of each housing at a time (top at once, then bottom) so that you have less chance of forgetting how you took it apart so you can put it back together.
Here is a pic of the right side housing, the kill switch is a simple 2 screws so there's no reason to show that:

With all the internal switches and screws moved to the new housings carefully reassemble the housing with the throttle cables and throttle sleeve. Remember how many threads or turns the top cable was screwed into the last housing and replicate that in the new housing. With the cables and wires back in place carefully put the "clamshell" of the housing back onto the bars, making sure to line up the tab in the bottom of the housing with the hole in the bar. Everything should close back up nicely and then you can put the 2 bottom screws back in place:

With the housing back together make sure all your switches function as they should, especially make sure the starter button doesn't stick. Once everything is in working order you can take the slack back out of the throttle cables by tightening up the 10mm bolt we loosened at the throttle body. You may want to tighten a little and check the slack in the throttle, then tighten a little more, etc until it is set right. You want to see a small amount of slack in the cable at the throttle body when the throttle is fully closed or else you may end up sticking the throttle open a little which will cause the bike to idle high.
If all is in working order then reattach the wires for your brake switch, it doesn't matter which wire goes on which tab:

Now you're done with the right side!

Left (clutch) side
The left side has less things attached to it but more wires/switches inside so it's a toss-up on difficulty.
Start by disconnecting the wires for the clutch switch, these are just like the wires for the brake switch on the right side:

Then take your screwdriver and undo the 2 screws under the housing:

Now you can split the housing and like the right side slowly undo one part at a time and move it into the new housing. Be especially careful to get the horn button and turn signal switch seated properly. If there is not a lot of grease on the pivot for the turn signal switch (as seen in the pic) then add a little to keep this pivot in good working order
Also make sure not to tighten the screw where the turn signal switch pivots too tight or you will bind the switch so it won't operate properly.

With all the internal switches and screws moved to the new housings carefully reassemble the housing. With the wires back in place carefully put the "clamshell" of the housing back onto the bars, making sure to line up the tab in the bottom of the housing with the hole in the bar and also making sure the big grey "ring" left on the bar gets back into the proper groove in the housing. Everything should close back up nicely and then you can put the 2 bottom screws back in place:

With the housing back together make sure all your switches function as they should, especially make sure the high beam switch and horn button don't stick.
If all is in working order then reattach the wires for your clutch switch, it doesn't matter which wire goes on which tab:

That's it - you're done - congratulations!

Afterthoughts
This is a neat mod for cleaning up the look of the bars with a little more chrome. With a little patience and care this is a simple mod for most anyone with basic hand tools. The pics of the housings open will be the key to getting everything back together in one piece.