Preface
This is a collection of some relatively simple to make tools that make working on the VTX a little easier. Many thanks go out to all those who were innovative enough to have conceived these ideas and then had the decency to offer these ideas so others can benefit from them. If you have any additional homemade tools to add, please let me know as I'd be interested in adding them here. As always, I'm more than willing to give credit where it's due. If you don't see anyone credited then it's one of my own.
Tank Prop
Courtesy of Biglry
This is a pretty self explanatory item from the pic - EXTREMELY useful as I've used mine too many times to remember.
Trailering "blocks"
For those of you who trailer from time to time I put this together to show a quick
and easy solution for tying down without compressing front forks. Tying down the
front end so it's compressed may make a bike feel solid on a trailer, but it's
very bad for springs and seals. Get some scrap lumber, 2x6 or bigger (I've used
2x6 through 2x12 and it all works well). Some guys have this laying around the
house, if not check the scrap pile at anything under construction and you should
be able to get what you need without spending a dime. As you can see in the second
picture below I cut an angle on mine and it doubles as part of my "oil change
blocks" (see further down this page).
Measure the width of your frame rails and add at least 4-6 inches to that length.
Cut 3 pieces of lumber into those lengths, nail or screw your pieces together
and you should be good. When you go to trailer the bike, roll the bike on the
trailer and stand it upright, hold the front brake lever and pull back on the
bars which will raise the front of the bike a bit. As you do this have someone
else slide the block under the frame rails - slightly forward of the center of
the frame. When you let go of the brake and the bike rests down it should sit
firmly on that block with 2-3 inches extra hanging out to each side. Get off the bike, strap the front and back ends of the bike down like you normally would. Strapping the front from the forks/triple trees and the rear from the passenger peg mounts usually works well for me. When you strap everything down tight it compresses on the block instead of compressing the forks. The bike should be rock solid without compressing the front end at all - not only does this not compress the forks, it actually leaves them slightly extended.
Things to consider:
My bike rests fine on 3 2x's stacked, but different bikes/shocks/springs make for different frame heights so you may have to adjust from 3 2x's to 2 and a piece of plywood filler to get your height just right - measure and find what works well for your bike. You want it a little taller than the frame sits when level so you have to actually "lift" the front end by locking the front brake.
Frame rail width is dependent on your bike, I didn't want to specify just 1300 or 1800 or just VTX - measure your frame rail width and decide how much extra you feel comfortable with hanging out of each side from under the frame rails. I always recommend at least 2-3 inches on each side just to be safe.
OEM electrical terminal kit
I tracked these down after a talk with JohnnyCheese. I could not find this kit through Honda although I feel certain it exists somewhere buried in the parts fiche. Either way, these are the exact same as the OEM connectors - no more buying cheap connectors at an auto store which don't fit quite right. The kit comes with a wide assortment of various OEM connectors and clear plastic insulating sleeves as well as the proper crimp tool for making good connections. It also contains some of the various plastic OEM plugs used on the bike. It's a little pricey at around $100 or so for the entire kit, but if you do a lot of wiring it's great - you can't distinguish new wiring from old. It can be ordered from any Suzuki parts dealer, either in your town or online - it is Suzuki OEM part #09900-28701.
If you're interested in ordering only specific connectors I have pics and specific part numbers listed below also, they come in packs of 50.
Socket #09900-28701-012 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-014 (50/pack)
Spade #09900-28701-011 (50/pack)
Bullet #09900-28701-001 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-003 (50/pack)
Sleeve #09900-28701-002 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-004 (50/pack)
Eyelet #09900-28701-005 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-003 (50/pack)
Small socket #09900-28701-010 (50/pack)
Small spade #09900-28701-009 (50/pack)
Baffle removal tool
Courtesy of Atadude
This is also a pretty self explanatory item from the pic - very useful in removing those baffles that just don't want to cooperate.
Rear drive filler
This is a 60cc syringe with a small piece of flexible hose on the end. Fairly
straightforward device that works extremely well for filling the final drive while
the bike is on it's sidestand. I chose 60cc because the bike takes approximately
120cc's of fluid to fill it during a normal change, so 2 syringes fills the drive
housing perfectly. I also have a much smaller 12cc syringe that I can use when
working on the forks to add/remove fluid until I get the level where I want it.
I got mine from a doctor friend but you can also try a vet's office or most farm
supply stores. They should cost about $2 for the syringe and a few cents more
for the plastic hose.
Oil change 2x6 blocks
I bought an 8' 2x6 and had it cut into 7 pieces. I screwed 4 pieces together to make 2 4x6 blocks and I screwed the remaining 3 together to make a 6x6 block. When changing the oil I can use the lift to raise the bike onto the blocks and then remove the lift. I end up with a 4x6 under the front and rear wheel and a 6x6 under the kickstand to make the bike slightly more upright. It gives me plenty of space to change the oil without scraping my knuckles on the concrete! Recently "Addicted" from the VTXOA recommended cutting the ends off the front/rear wheel blocks at an angle so you can drive right onto them. If you cut the kickstand block a little shorter and make the wheel blocks a little longer this would work perfectly.
I also find lots of other uses around the garage for them, like blocking up the rear wheel when I need to remove the shocks, and stuff like that.
Bungee cord wheel "holder"
Pretty straight-forward - when the bikes on the lift the front wheel/forks/etc flop around and can ding the tank depending on what you're doing. String a bungee cord through the front wheel and clip it to each spacer for the forward controls. It will hold everything straight and prevent it from flopping around on you and causing problems.
Cardboard "gasket" templates
This isn't so much a tool as it is a concept. Some of you may have seen me use one of these when I did the Clutch spring swap write-up. It's basically a quick and easy way to keep track of which bolts go where when working in an environment where you may have different length bolts. Just draw a quick sketch of whichever part your working on and then punch the bolts through as you remove them.
Swingarm socket tool
Courtesy of Biglry
This is an idea I got from Biglry. In order to remove/reinstall the swingarm you need to be able to torque down the locknut on the swingarm. This nut is designed like a "castle" nut (for those familiar with them in automotive applications) so you need to either buy or fab your own. The one from the stealer (OEM part# 07908-4690003) will run you about $45, I made this one from a junk 1 1/4" socket I had in my toolbox. It's my understanding that you can make one from a 1 1/8" socket that will work just as well. You can use the locknut itself as a template and grind the socket with a dremel tool or any other tool that will give you the same profile.
17mm "allen" for swingarm and front axle
Courtesy of Lamont
In order to remove/reinstall the swingarm and the front wheel you need a 17mm allen. Now you can jump on Ebay and look for a VW or Porsche oil drain plug socket (these 2 engines required a 17mm allen) and get one for under $10 usually OR you can make this setup recommended by Lamont of the VTXOA. This is simply a bolt with a 17mm head on it with 2 nuts that thread onto it "locked" together. You can tack a couple of welds on this as well to make sure it doesn't come undone.
Clutch basket removal tool
Courtesy of Wayde
This tool is made from used clutch steels. Take the stack of used disks, line them up well and weld them together.
(DO NOT TRY TO WELD THEM ON THE CLUTCH BASKET)
Then weld on a piece of strap and an old junk socket.
Muffin tin nut/bolt sorter
If you're married don't let the wife catch you on this one!!!
You can usually pick these up for a couple of bucks here and there and they work really well for sorting nuts bolts when you do big projects with too many nuts/bolts to keep track of. I'm smart enough to know that during big projects when I reassemble everything (weeks later sometimes) I'll forget where everything goes. This is a quick and easy way to keep track of everything and where it goes. Drop the parts in a section and jot on it with a permanent marker. When your project is done a little rubbing alcohol or brake/carb cleaner will take the marker right off and you're ready for the next project.
Quick/cheap/easy chrome fix
Courtesy of Wyandotte Kid
This was recommended to me by Wyandotte Kid at the Honda Hoot. I was showing a 240 bike I just completed and being aggravated about some rust that was appearing in/on the bolt heads from some rain we'd ridden through. He was kind enough to walk up and hand me this (see pic below) and offer for me to try it. I was AMAZED to see the rust disappear under this stuff and you could NOT tell that there had ever been anything wrong underneath. Very impressive, very easy, very cheap, a must have in a bike's arsenal if you are meticulous about the bike looking clean all the time.
Free chrome saver
Courtesy of Jim Travis
Use a piece of plastic from the bags we get parts in - this plastic is heavier than "Saran Wrap" or Ziploc baggies. Before you install/remove a chrome bolt/nut put the plastic over it and then use your tool over it. This will prevent damage to the chrome and as long as you use the correct size tool for the job you won't damage the chrome.
No pic necessary
Fork spring tool
Courtesy of Chet @ Rattlebars
This is an item Chet has posted in his write-up on changing the fork springs which can be seen here. I fabbed my own using a piece of pipe that adhered to Chet's specs and I welded an old socket into the end to give me a 1/2" drive socket. It replaces Honda OEM part# 07VMA-MZ0010A which costs a little less than $30 if you buy one.
After speaking with a machinist friend I was informed that the pipe I used is actually nothing more than 1 1/4" schedule 40 pipe, available at most home stores. It has a 1.5" ID (inside diameter) and a 1.76" OD (outside diameter). There are 4 tabs equally spaced, .265" wide and .156 tall. Please keep in mind I am no machinist so these figures are pretty close based on multiple readings with a caliper but they may not be exact. They are definitely close enough for the tool to work though.
Fork seal driver
Courtesy of Chet @ Rattlebars
These pics are completely self-explanatory - this is just a cheap and easy substitute to buying the Honda tool.
Fork spring compressor tool
Courtesy of Coyote7864
These pics show a neat way to compress the left fork spring when using the "special" fork spring tool mentioned above. This can sometimes be a pretty tough job, especially if you're working by yourself - making a tool like this makes the job EASY!
If this write-up helped you then please consider helping support the site:
Please feel free to email me if you need additional info or have any additional tools to add.
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